It’s hard to get some folks to under stand that its not really about the trap. The trap is nothing more than a snare delivery device. The trap will not hold a house cat. It is not designed to do anything but deliver the snare. I have been putting springs on snares for ten years of one type or another. I started years a go with a screen door type spring and used a pulling motion to tighten the lock. I moved on to the type we use now about five years ago. I finally paid some one to make them for me. (Yea Rick they do work better. ) There I said it. I just like building it myself.




We had to be able to release any by catch, such as deer, unharmed. We can do that with this system. That’s the whole idea - releasing deer that you will trap from time to time. The PVC tube is just that - a ¾” thin walled PVC tube 14” long. When you bed the snare in the soil, the weight of the dirt on top of a bare spring hinders that spring from delivering energy to the lock. The tube acts like a barrel of a shotgun, the spring is not diverted from its target and the lock receives the full force of the spring to slam it closed. You have to have both, the trap and the HOLD A HAWG snare for this system to work.



We have two cable sizes a (3/32” 7x7 and 7x19 cable with a regular lock and a 1/8” 7x19 cable with a bigger wolf lock.)  We use the best aircraft cable we can buy. The springs are built for us in Houston Texas.


Tying off the snare and using a drag



When you tie the snare off to something make it something strong. We have had t post pulled out of the ground and a good size yaupon broken off. If you use quick clips be sure and screw them all the way closed, I have had a big hog spread the clip and was gone. Keep it short. Use as little chain as possible when you attach it to the snare tie off end. Don’t give the hog a lot of chain to get up a big head of steam when he hits the end of the line. If you use a drag use a heavy one. If you dont have any drags build some. You can use a cord board box fill it with an 80 pound bag of cheap concrete. Water it and push some 5/8” rebar thought the box and let it set up. Be sure to set in some kind of an eye bolt to tie off to. After it hardens you can come back and bend the rebar like anchors. It’s cheap and it works. I once had a hog drag a cement anchor like this over 50 yards so use strong chain.


A drag is not like tying off to a stationary object. I like to have 30 feet or more of chain between the snare and my drag. He will hang up a lot sooner with the longer chain.


 I don’t tie my traps off. I remove the chain altogether on mine. There is no need to tie it off to any thing as the trap is going to come off of the animal’s leg. It will be within ten feet of where you set it. Remember the trap is weak with a one inch jaw off set it is designed to fall off.



Box traps

I have used box traps in the past. When your box stops catching hogs I have a tip for you that works. The hogs will eat the corn on the out side of the trap and not go inside the box. Set the Hold A Hawg snare trap on the out side of your box trap, where they do come for your corn and tie the snare cable off to the box trap. I have caught many hogs this way. You can try spraying the whole box trap with diesel fuel and that will some times pull them back in the box trap. Soak a corn cob with hog urine and toss it in the trap. I have caught some deer in a box trap and it was not a pretty sight. With our system we release the animal unharmed no tore off ears or broken antlers. Some times they will have a rope burn at the sight of the snare. The deer stops will not let the cable cut into the animals leg.





One of my favorite sayings is, the very best scent is the total absents of human order. If you’re a bow hunter, trapper or cameraman and need to get close you watch the wind and keep your scent down. We use gloves, kneeling pads, and hawg urine to cover our sent. I like to make my sets alone. I don’t want several people standing around my sets, smoking, spiting, peeing and leaving a lot of extra odor. I like to use a dry corn cob to hold my trapping scents, mostly our hawg urine. I break off one end and push a stick in the middle. I apply about a table spoon of our hawg urine to the cob and stick it in the ground on the up wind side of my trap. I have a friend that uses three to four cobs with the urine on the up wind side. He kind of circles the set with them. You can put a little on the ground, bush or tree that’s near your set. It acts as a draw as well as a cover scent. We sometimes tie a diesel soaked rag to the fence on the wind side. Keep the area human scent free and you’re on your way.

Trap care and Tuning


We use a number five Bridger leg hold trap that has been modified to our needs. We have a full one inch off set jaw. All of the edges has been polished for a smooth none cutting surface. We added a metal lip around the outside of each jaw to assist in holding the cable in place. The brass pan bolt has been replaced with a bolt and locking nut. A bushing has also been applied to the pan bolt to allow for a little extra pan tension. The heavy spring has been replaced with lighter ones to better allow an animal to escape the trap. The trap is physically heavy which helps the animal to lose it.

When you get your trap go set it if you wish and it will work fine. To prohibit the rust thing I wash mine in the dish washer and let it dry. I next spray paint them with brown colored primer. I apply several coats. This will not work with coyotes I know but its fine for hogs. I can say here that it is a lot easier than boiling, log dyeing, and waxing. I take the chain off my traps. The trap will come off the hogs leg and be lying close to your trap bed. Tighten the pan bolt down a good bit. Use a 5/16 winch and a screw driver to do this. Tighten it down till you think it will take a 40 pound shoat to set it off. That should be 10 pounds per leg. So I tighten to about 10 to 15 pounds. This will keep a lot of pigs and coons from tripping your trap. You can also put the dog loop in a vise and squeeze it down a little. If you do this you may have to bend the main frame up or down a touch to get the pan to set flush with the jaws when the trap is open or set. You don’t want the pan pointing up wards and above the jaw line. It’s all very simple just take a minute and study it. Please keep them clean and scent free. Set the trap and bed it; put the pan cover in place and spray it all with the scent killer.